Arima Onsen Takayamaso Hanano

Established in 1956 as a five-room inn, Hanano was rebuilt and reopened in July 1993 and remains a family-run property to this day. Despite its age, it feels well cared for - tasteful, serene, and finished in warm beige tones that create an airy atmosphere. The chairman appears to have stepped back from daily operations, which is now led by his capable daughter, though his influence is visible in the property’s refined décor: exquisite Ikebana and Kusamono arrangements crafted by artisans across Japan. Hanano lacks a traditional garden due to its compact site, but there’s a cozy lounge, a restaurant, and a modest daiyokujō (communal bath) area. That’s perfectly fine - Arima itself is a delightful destination for leisurely walks, browsing local shops, and sampling regional treats like carbonated onsen rice crackers. The only potential challenge is the entrance: 20 stone steps lead up to the lobby, which could be tricky for anyone with limited mobility. Hanano offers a range of accommodations for different budgets. The entry-level rooms are simple, with futon bedding laid out after dinner, while the top-tier suites approach true luxury. The flagship 100m² Oyama Renge Suite, revamped in 2025, features both kinsen and ginsen baths and a panoramic view over the town. Its fresh, modern interpretation of Japanese aesthetics surpasses what some high-end ryokans attempt. From the balcony, I could spot three of Arima’s seven hot spring sources and enjoyed watching tourists meander through the streets below. Bathing with the sliding glass window open brought a true open-air sensation. Hanano’s stay plans are flexible - room-only, breakfast-only, or half-board - and dinner options range from standard to upgraded kaiseki. Various Kobe beef enhancements can be added, from shabu-shabu and filet steak to a decadent beef-and-lobster course or even Kobe beef chateaubriand. The upgrade for the latter adds about ¥40,000 for two people, which seems reasonable given the quality of A5 grade Kobe beef. Since I’d recently overindulged in steak and the weather was bitterly cold, I chose the shabu-shabu this time. Meals here exceeded expectations: thoughtfully prepared, beautifully plated, and distinct from the typical ryokan fare. We were especially taken by the cold milt shinjo (savory fish cake) served in a suimono (clear broth) - a surprising and skillful twist, as shinjo is usually made with shrimp or crab. Another standout was the kuwai manjū with sobagara ankake and wasabi. Kuwai is a Japanese aquatic plant (a cultivar of Sagittaria trifolia) whose edible tuber was wrapped here in a soft, steamed manju bun. The dish was topped with ankake, a glossy kudzu-thickened dashi sauce mixed with sobagara (buckwheat husks). It’s a humble but deeply traditional creation - one of those understated kaiseki moments that remind you how complex Japanese haute cuisine can be. It’s far more layered than the standard lineup of sushi, tempura, or tonkatsu, many of which trace their roots to foreign influences. Breakfast was a more restrained affair - thankfully so after the indulgent dinner - but still festive. It featured elements of osechi ryōri (the New Year’s spread) such as ozōni, the mochi soup made in Kansai with a white miso base. The local koshihikari rice from Sanda was so fragrant and fluffy that even someone usually carb-conscious like myself couldn’t resist a second bowl. Service-wise, our attendant - a polite, reserved young woman - handled both dinner and breakfast. She answered questions plainly but without elaboration; I later learned she’s a longtime part-time staff member who assists mainly on weekends and during peak seasons, which explains her matter-of-fact manner. The owning family, by contrast, were fully engaged. The daughter, clearly in charge, was ever attentive and efficient, with a warmth that made her presence felt. Her younger brother, while earnest, seemed less at ease in guest interactions. Though tradition often dictates that the eldest son inherits the reins, I have a feeling this family might make an exception – it’s obvious who’s best suited to keep Hanano’s spirit alive. Like most ryokans in Arima, Takayamaso Hanano’s baths aren’t fed directly from the source. Water is delivered by truck, filtered, and temperature-controlled before reaching the tubs. The kinsen (golden spring), a sodium chloride source drawn from Gokuraku Spring, emerges at just 19°C and must be heated on-site, while the ginsen (silver spring) flows at 69°C and requires cooling. Thankfully, no cold tap water is added to the ginsen, suggesting Hanano uses a non-diluting cooling method to preserve the spring’s purity. We went to Takayamaso Hanano with modest expectations, given its mixed reviews, and simply hoped for a peaceful New Year in a spacious suite with a private bath and good food. The ryokan delivered exactly that - and then some. In a place where room choice makes all the difference, Hanano ensured our stay was quiet, comfortable, and memorable.

Amazing stay!! Upon arrival we were warmly greeted by the Japanese staff who kindly assisted us with our baggages (no elevator to the entrance of hotel). We had to take our shoes off and the staff kept away our shoes, and we wore the accommodation slippers. We had choices of welcome drinks in the lounge. The rooms were very cleverly designed, the hotel seems very new, well maintained, great facilities. I would say it felt more like I was in a mini guesthouse more than a hotel. I had a very cosy vibe and every staff cared for us, made us feel like home. Dinner and breakfast were served in a separate room, kaiseki style, very nice! Basically I had doubts before booking this place due to the lack of reviews and information, and it was hard to contact the hotel without speaking Japanese. In the end it turned out to be one of the highlights of my Japan trip!

I was blown away by this little town and loved this hotel experience. The staff was on point and fun. The baths were perfect with a great view. We got dinner and breakfast and they were both perfect. You get to try so many dishes. I want to be there right now. I will see you again!