Kocho

I always include an overnight trip to an onsen whenever I’m in Japan so I’ve seen many to compare to. This is a lovely traditional ryokan that has had some discreet modern renovations that really improve the experience. We were here on a Monday so I suspect there may have been very few others staying, which meant we received an unexpected upgrade to our room, which was very kind. The room had clearly been renovated and came with low futon beds which was welcome as my back is not quite up to sleeping on a traditional floor futon these days, even with an onsen to wash away the aches! Plus it means you can be a bum and relax on the bed right from the outset. Other updates included a massive flat screen tv, redone bathroom with a state-of-the-art washlet, and a general refresh. Very nice. Also lovely was the in-room outdoor onsen which was super-hot but left us both with mysteriously soft skin from the water. Service is with a kind smile even with our complete inability to speak Japanese. The staff communicate with the help of pre-printed signs and translation apps. Dinner and breakfast were part of our stay and serving sizes were extremely generous, I was totally defeated. Cuisine is seafood-heavy as fits the region. In summary: highly recommended.

We drove over an hour and a half from Kanazawa to reach Kocho in Kaga, only to be informed upon arrival that our reservation had been closed or cancelled without any prior notice. It was a huge disappointment, but oddly enough, the staff seemed almost relieved that we wouldn’t be staying. The atmosphere was unwelcoming, and the property itself didn’t impress. The carpet looked dirty, the overall condition was tired, and my friend who briefly saw the room was not impressed at all. The owner casually told us, “You can stay, but there will be no dinner,” and when asked about the cost, quoted a shocking price of ¥200,000 (around £550) for one night—despite the poor service and lack of hospitality. Fortunately, we found another hotel nearby and left immediately. In hindsight, it felt like a blessing that the reservation had somehow been cancelled. This place was far from the serene retreat we expected. Save yourself the trouble—look elsewhere.

We were staying at Kocho late December 2019, after Christmas. After checking in, we were served delicious sweets and macha. Our room was spacious and can easily accomodate 3-4 people. It also has a separate dinning area partitioned by sliding door, where dinner and breakfast were served. They have 2 public bath (one of which has an outdoor portion) and a private bath (which you can use whenever it’s door is open). We were totally blown away by the kaiseki dinner. It was one of the best meal we’ve ever had on any Japanese ryokan. The shioyaki were impressive, as well as the crab dish, which was in season. We were also served a complimentary Buri Daikon, which is a popular winter dish in the area. The staffs spoke little English, but it was not a problem at all for us even though we don’t speak any Japanese. The ryokan is placed very near to the town center and ayatori bridge, allowing us to stroll around town before soaking in the hot tubs. Definitely recommending Kocho to anyone visiting Yamanaka Onsen