Casa Do Anquiao

My favourite stay of our recent 10-day trip to Northern Portugal. Staying at this casa was akin to becoming a character in a fairytale: I felt like Alice in Wonderland, discovering through every new doorway an exciting new and exotic adventure: all the fabulous nooks and crannies, stuffed with gorgeous antiques and superb artwork. It smelled divine – as a previous poster said, of wood smoke and balsa. It’s in an absolutely stunning setting in the middle of the golf course - just nature all around and no noise except for the sound of birds enjoying the water features. We were lucky enough to be the only ones there over our two days, so we had it all to ourselves - including the wonderful balmy pool, which we were able to swim in at midnight – although probably not recommended after a bottle or two of Vinho Verde! We were looked after magnificently by the lovely Lourdes, who couldn’t do enough for us. The day we arrived it was raining, although not at all cold, but she still lit the fire in the lounge and brought us some local wine and nibbles. Each morning at breakfast, we had enough delightful fresh produce to sink a battleship, with Lourdes making superb scrambled eggs. I cried when I said goodbye to her – it felt like leaving behind my close family. I can’t recommended Casa de Anquião highly enough, and cannot wait to return. This time, for much longer.

We spent one night here. We had trouble checking in, as the woman didn’t speak English. We got by with Spanish. The hotel is teeming with antiques. Our room was enormous, though the bed was small, a double, and the pillow substandard for this property. The place was immaculate. Breakfast was great, with fresh bread, fresh orange juice and eggs. The road to the place is quite bumpy. Internet was nonexistent. They should have some lighting for nights, as we had trouble finding the keyhole upon returning from dinner.

We stayed at the Casa de Anquião for 2-nights while exploring the area & Peneda-Gerês National Park in late-Sep (70 €/night). Located 4 km from Ponte de Lima in a rural area and (improbably) beside a golf course, the casa had its origins as a 17th century estate and was impressively atmospheric and ancient. On arrival, you see an enormous cross-topped gate flanked by 2 gatehouse rooms, then a flagstone praça behind which is the casa perched on a hill overlooking the pool, its private orchard and lake & the golf course beyond. Everywhere there are atmospheric touches – crosses above roof peaks, a private grainary, huge urns, tiled roofs, masses of onions & garlic drying in a shed. And inside there is more – antique furnishings, bronze statues, muskets hanging from the walls in the salon, hallways and breakfast area. Our room, in the stone-walled gatehouse, was no exception. Entering, we were astounded by the huge sitting area with its soaring, wood-beamed roof, fireplace, tile floors, period painting & wall china, & antique wood chests, with just a hint of wood smoke in the air. You would expect such a space to be dark, but 3 shuttered wood windows & a patio door let in enough light to make it open and welcoming. At the far end of the room were a pair of stone stairs, one leading to a tiny kitchen (hot plate, sink, mini-refrigerator), the other to the large bedroom with its comfortable queen bed & side tables, chest of drawers, and closet. The bathroom, en suite to the bedroom, was large with a bathtub/shower and a small cabinet with plenty of space for your toiletries. The atmospheric nature of the space is difficult to overstate - late at night, I simply sat in the dim light, drinking in the feeling of sitting in a huge, stone walled room where the windows & doors could still be barred with wood posts that fit into slots in the stone, thinking of days it was all necessary to repel invaders. On the grounds, the pool was large, well maintained, & had plenty of loungers (a bit too cold at this time of year, though). Breakfast was delicious, with a variety of cold-cuts, bread & buns, coffee, fresh orange juice, coffee, as well as hot food – mini-pancakes, scrambled eggs & bacon. Internet was available, but only in the salon if the main house. You need to go to town for dinner (and anything else), a 10-min While the casa was identified in our GPS, it was still a bit difficult to find. If you approach from Ponte de Lima, the main road south winds up through the hills then, just as it begins downward turn right at the sign for the hotel and watch for a second sign that directs you through a stone gate. It doesn't look like a hotel, but if you follow the dirt road to the right, it will lead to the reception. If you are in the area, this was a must-stay destination with astonishing value for the price. Highly recommended.