Chakrabongse Villas

Imagine a green oasis on Maharat Road among the souvenir shops, cafes, and restaurants, some of them mentioned in the Michelin Guide. Among the costume shops on the street where tourists small enough rent a tiny Thai dress for the day. Cosplay is optional, not required. Near Wat Pho, a temple which houses a thai massage school, is on one side of Maharat. Across the river on the Thonburi side of Bangkok, is Wat Arun the Temple of Dawn. Walking down the lanes of Maharat that end at the river, you can snap Instagram worthy photos of the temple without taking a boat from Tha Thian Market to Wat Arun itself. This is the context for Chakrabongse Villas, a bit of old Bangkok also known officially as Rattanakosin Island. A small boutique hotel, it is at least 3 times as expensive as anything in the surrounding area including Khao San Road, the Mecca for budget tourism. Young tourists walking Maharat do not stay at Chakrabongse Villas. The staff are friendly and helpful, and speak English fluently. But the guard at the gate doesn't speak English at all. Like St Peter at the pearly gates, he refused to let me in, no doubt because I came looking like a sinner and a tourist from Maharat Road. He pointed to the sign that said in English that reservations are required. I had to call reception on my cellphone to confirm my identity. It’s not the guard’s fault. Reception should give security a list of their guests. According to the manager there are 8 rooms in the converted outbuildings. It is, after all, the boutique experience. The place is charming with old fashioned tiles and carved woodwork. There are updated amenities like air conditioning, TV, mini bar, and a rain shower in a claw foot tub. The Villas designer has a witty sense of humor. Your room key will be a traditional Thai brass padlock. You will lock yourself in at night with bolts and a stick of wood threaded through two knobs. My room was on the second floor. If you have a disability there is no elevator and you must climb into the tub. There are no signs informing a guest there are actually two gates and one of them is always locked. So it is easy to make that mistake. I made an idiot of myself rattling the gates of heaven to be let in. I should have realized there was another gate 50 feet away when I didn’t see St Peter. The Villas is easy enough to find via MRT subway. I recommend it. The station, Sanam Chai, is a jewel box, all white and gold, with royal red ceilings. It is just a short 5 minute walk down Soi (lane) Settham past the Museum Siam that features new exhibits on a regular basis. When this writer stayed at the Villas there was an exhibition that explored Thai identity, both traditional and modern, both playful and reverent. This reflection made me think of the romantic backstory of Chakrabongse Villas. Prince Chakrabongse fell in love with a Russian woman, a commoner, and married her back in the day when royals only ever married other royals. Unfortunately their marriage didn’t last. But like all good stories, their descendants endure.

Beautiful little rooms, villa grounds in a fabulous area on river. Quirky / tranquil rooms. Pool lovely warm and clean. Great coffee and tea basket. Noise.of bird amazing but annoying when you're trying to sleep! Breakfast very filling and fresh. Ask them not to bring it all at once as it got cold the first morning. Lady on reception walks o You around the grounds in check in...leave your bag n reception as we nearly passed out and she didn't advise to leave there.

Built in 1908, the villa served as the residence for one of the sons of King Rama V. About 20 years ago it was converted into a boutique hotel. If you would like an antidote to big modern hotels this is the place, and as a regular visitor to Bangkok we would say the by far the best place we have stayed. The attached pictures show much of the story, but just to add we booked a suite which was large and very comfortable. Unlike the big hotels, breakfast is actually served and whilst it may not have the most extensive choices it was perfectly good whilst sitting on the terrace looking out at the world going by on the river. We would return in a heartbeat.