Riad Boustan

We stayed here as part of our tour of the country with friends who had the room opposite us across the balcony. Our host came to our vehicle to meet us as and escort us to the Riad, as we would never have found it ourselves, tucked away in the middle of the Kasbah. It was only a five minute walk from the road. The room was very traditional and our first Riad which was a treat. Our shower was just a mixer tap with a shower hose and unfortunately flooded the entire bathroom, out the door and almost out the front door. However we mentioned this to our host and he fixed it straight away, the next evening it was fine. The bed was quite hard but we managed to get a good night's sleep despite an early call to prayer which woke us. Breakfast was fresh, hot crepes (naan bread), French stick sliced. Hard boiled egg halves, marmalade, honey, butter and cheese triangles. With tea and coffee. It was filling enough and all beautifully freshly made. For dinner we had to go out and our host showed us a couple of places which we tried and were very good. The following morning we were leaving very early and the bread wasn't available but our host bought almond croissants and Moroccan bread, eggs, marmalade etc. delicious. There are quite a few steps up to the room which are steep and narrow. I think they have ground floor rooms so if you have difficulty with steps best to ask for ground floor.

I know the Fez Medina really well as I visit the city regularly (maybe 20 plus times in the last 15 years!) - and I’m also a lone female visitor. Having stayed in lots of different parts of the Medina - I’ve realised that they all have the same fabulous Fassi architecture that most owners have lovingly restored, and without exception, all have very old water pipes. And most Moroccans are really hospitable - and will help you as much as possible and serve fabulous breakfasts. So after these many visits to the Medina in the past 15 years - it’s all down to location, location, location! Stay somewhere that’s near a road, so you don’t have to walk up steep hills with luggage, is busy at night (you don’t want to be lost alone in those little alley ways at night) and feels safe. Before I tell you why Riad Boustan is my chosen place - let me explain that Fes is built on two very steep hills and that the narrow Fes river runs through the heart of the Medina. There is absolutely no transport in the Medina, just a road that circles the walled city. If you’re new to the city, you will be constantly heckled - so being able to get around and understanding the layout of the Medina is worth researching before you arrive. It will make your visit much more pleasant. There are two great areas to stay - either Batha or R’cif. Both these two areas are safe, and close to the outer road for taxis. I now choose R’Cif as my preferred area. Why? Because you can never get lost, it’s built in the valley of the Medina so all paths lead down there. It’s the only part of the Medina that’s flat - and its also an area that’s very family friendly. Every evening in place R’cif there is a small market and funfair where local mums congregate with their children. If you’re sightseeing - start at the top. Take a taxi to Batha or the Blue Gate in the morning - which is at the top of the hill - and then meander down the Talaa Kebira to the Place Seffarine to finish at R’Cif. If you get lost, don’t worry, as if you follow the paths downwards - you will always find your way home. So why Riad Boustan? Well it’s very, very good value for money for the position, standard of service and the beauty of the building and rooms. It’s in a quiet road parallel to the main street with the cars (don’t be put off by the entrance in a little alley way as most riads are the same, as it is Moroccan custom not to show your wealth by the front door). But once inside… it’s the most beautiful palace that has been lovingly restored. I stayed there for the first time in 2018 and returned again this summer (2019) and could see massive improvements. The large rooms all face onto the courtyard and there is the relaxing sound of the water fountain in the background. There is a new solar system on the roof to heat the water - but, big tip: run your shower for two or three minutes before jumping in - as it takes time to heat up! The WIFI is great in centre courtyard and the parts of the rooms by the window - but when I moaned to the manager Moucine that I couldn’t get good reception further into the room - he went and got a booster, so it was perfect! In fact, he was always really helpful, welcoming me with loads of fresh mint tea and nothing was too much when I needed extra items for the room. So… if anything’s not right with your stay - he is very responsive and will go out of his way to put it right. I was lucky that the owner Moustapha was there on my last visit, and I spent many evenings flicking through photographs and hearing of the building restoration - a real labour of love and money. I will definitely be back again.

The staff was friendly and keen to accommodate our needs! Thank you also for the dinner 😊 Room upgrade without even asking it was highly appreciated 🌸 Elegant decoration in every detail. During breakfast, you could hear the water from the fountain and listen to some great local music, made you enjoy and feel relaxed as being in a spa.